Bonsai

Bonsai (pronounced "bone-sigh") is a Japanese word that, freely translated, means, "a planting in a shallow container." Bonsai is an art form, a horticultural process and an expression of eastern philosophy. The earliest records of bonsai are found in ancient Chinese writings. Called "pentsai" (potted plant), or "penjing" (potted scene), by the Chinese, the art grew out of the tradition of garden design. Bonsai traveled to Korea and Japan during a period of active cultural exchange between the 11th and 13th centuries. Although China and Korea have maintained their own varied and lively traditions of "pentsai" and "boonjay" (potted plant), it was the Japanese who modified and popularized the art of bonsai as we know it today.

Artistically, a bonsai is a small-scale representation of a large, mature tree in its natural surroundings. An artist manipulates the tree's physical characteristics to suggest a scene and elicit an emotional response in the viewer. A bonsai is not an exact replica of a tree, but rather a simplified, rather abstracted suggestion of a tree image.

Horticulturally, bonsai are healthy, well nourished, vigorously growing trees. A bonsai, because it is a living organism, continues to grow and change throughout its life; therefore, in artistic terms, it is never "finished" - the artistic process must continue for as long as the tree lives. Unlike inanimate material such as clay or glass, a bonsai cannot be simply pressed or molded at will. For every time the artist bends or shapes the tree to his or her will, the artist must bend and yield to the needs of the tree. Thus, the act of creating a bonsai is an interactive, evolutionary process that is termed "training" rather than "sculpting."

Bonsai is a celebration of nature's beauty, embodying the spirit of harmony between nature and humankind that is characteristic of both traditional Asian philosophies and contemporary Western conservationism.

A tree planted in a small pot is not a bonsai until it has been pruned, shaped, and trained into the desired shape. Bonsai are kept small by careful control of the plant's growing conditions. Only branches important to the bonsai's overall design are allowed to remain and unwanted growth is pruned away. Roots are confined to a pot and are periodically clipped. Bonsai may have a stylized or an exaggerated form, as found in nature. The appearance of old age of a plant is much prized and bonsai may live to be hundreds of years old. The living bonsai will change from season to season and from year to year requiring pruning and training throughout its lifetime ... and as time goes on it will become more and more beautiful.

It is impossible to write a simple set of care rules. Every species of plant has it's own special needs. Each location and environment is also different; therefore it is important, when starting in bonsai, to study all you can on the art.

Basic Care of Bonsai

Watering

More bonsai are lost due to improper watering than from all other causes combined. The length of time between watering can vary quite a bit depending on conditions such as humidify, soil moisture retention, weather conditions, and size of pot. Bonsai usually need to be watered every day or two. The best time to water is early in the day or late in the afternoon at the same time every day. A through watering is accomplished when excess water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, BUT ... too much water can be just as bad as too little water. In general the soil should be moist, not soaking wet, and not dry.

Unlike a houseplant, bonsai use a "free draining" type of soil because their roots cannot tolerate "wet feet". In addition, they are grown in significantly less soil and, therefore require more watering. Factors such as tree location, temperature, lighting conditions, quantity of soil used, and the changing seasons will determine the frequency of watering.

Fertilizing

Feedings vary from plant to plant (such as flowering plants have different requirements than the junipers). A water-soluble fertilizer is usually applied every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season, in a half-strength solution. Pre-moisten the plant soil first. Never fertilizer a very dry bonsai.

Repotting

A bonsai must periodically be repotted to supply a pot-bound root system with fresh soil. It is also necessary to keep the root system in balance with the top growth. Most require repotting every two or three years. This depends on the growth of the tree and also on the size of the pot. This should be done in the early spring. Do not fertilize for 3-4 weeks after repotting. Do not let the roots go dry while repotting. Water well when finished. 

Insects and Disease

A bonsai is nothing more than a miniature version of a normal plant; therefore it can be treated with commonly found insecticides and fungicides according to directions on the package. Insects such as aphids, spider mites, scale, and root aphids are a common problem corrected by sprays, soapy rinse, or a systemic.

Trimming Pruning and Training

Trimming and pruning are the means by which a bonsai is kept miniature. This involves the systematic removal of vigorous growth in the spring. It is important however, to understand that for the health of the tree one should never remove all the new growth at one time. The roots are trimmed and so is the foliage on the plant. The tree is wired to assist in getting branches to grow in a specific position and to enhance the look of the tree. The wire is removed after 6 months. Usually the branch should then stay in that position on it's own. Wire should be carefully cut from the branches. Do not unwind wires as this could break the branch. Trim branches to expose the trunk and to shape the tree into the look you want. Two goals in bonsai are to make young trees look older by thickening the trunk and the positioning of the branches, and to find enjoyment in nature.

Indoor Bonsai

There are many varieties of plants that do well as an indoor bonsai such as ficus, aralia, azalea norfolk pine, serissa, gardenia, or boxwood. Note that these are all woody-stemmed plants and can have their limbs wired to direct the growth. Tropical and subtropical varieties can not tolerate tempers below 40 - 50 degrees F. These plants can be left outside when the temperatures stay above this. Light inside the house should be by filtered sunlight from an east, south, or west window. Grow lights 12 hours per day work well.

Outdoor Bonsai

There is a wide choice of trees for outside bonsai. The winter dormant period is essential to the general good health of a bonsai. In northern climates winter protection from freeze-drying winds is often necessary. Trees should be kept in an unheated area. An unheated garage, shed, breezeway, or cold frame can provide this. Check the root system for moisture and water as necessary while in winter storage. Unless the root ball is frozen they will need to be watered every week or so. In the summer water more often as weather conditions demand. Never let the tree go dry but do not keep it soaked either. Some of the trees suitable for outdoor bonsai are junipers, maples, elms, pines, ginkgo, hawthorn, and flowering crab apple.

Frequently Asked Questions About Bonsai

How often should I re-pot my Bonsai?

All potted plants will eventually outgrow their containers. While houseplants need to be "up-potted", that is, placed in larger and larger containers, we maintain the miniaturization of a bonsai by keeping the roots confined to the small container. On average, repotting will be necessary every 3-5 years, but the tree should be removed from its container and its root system inspected once a year. If the roots form a circular ball around the perimeter of the pot, it is time to trim the roots and repot. When repotting remember to (a) use only bonsai soil (b) remove air pockets by working the soil down through the roots (c) do not remove more that 20% of the root system (d) repot during the appropriate repotting season (e) water well and keep out of the sun for a week or two.

How often should I fertilize my Bonsai?

Because Bonsai are cultivated in limited amounts of soil, adequate feed is very important. As a general rule, a small amount of feed is given in the spring and a larger amount in the fall. Feed for bonsai should contain three principle ingredients; nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. It is also a good idea to use a fertilizer containing "chelated" iron. Water before fertilizing your tree and then apply at half the strength recommended by the brand's manufacturer. We rotate the use of brands since different manufacturers add different amounts of trace elements and minerals. We also add superthrive, which is a vitamin supplement to our fertilizer mix. You may find it simpler and easier to use slow release fertilizer granules (placed over the soil) whose nutrients are released with each watering.

How often should I mist my Bonsai?

All trees grow in more humid conditions than our homes, offices and dormitories. So what can we do to provide this essential humidity? Misting the tree is only beneficial for a short time, so what we recommend is to place the tree on a humidity tray and add water to the tray. As the water in the tray evaporates it creates a humid environment around the tree 24 hours a day. When the water in the tray is gone, add more water. It's a good idea to separate the pot from the water in the tray by adding some pebbles to the bottom of the tray. This will prevent any roots from sitting in the water.

How much sunlight is required for my Bonsai?

Sunlight, especially the ultra-violet ray, affects the growth of trees. Therefore, except in special cases such as immediately after repotting, extensive trimming, etc, bonsai should be placed in a sunny location. Bright light will also work well but the tree should not be placed more than 12" away from the direct light source. An east, west or southern exposure works best. A northern exposure will require the use of "grow lights" which should remain on up to 16 hours each day and the lamp should not be more than 2 inches from the top of the tree. Incandescent light is too hot and will not provide the various spectrum of light that is required to maintain your bonsai. If you do not have a window or light source that provides an east, west or southern exposure, be sure to select a bonsai that does well in lower lighting conditions.

How is miniaturizing a tree possible?

No one single technique is adequate to make a tree small. The fact that the tree is grown in a container, the trimming, pruning, repotting and other care given the tree -- all contribute to the final result of limited growth. Dwarf trees are often found in a natural environment, but in bonsai this environment is provided artificially. Bonsai are grown in shallow containers the size of which determines the amount of soil the roots are able to grow in. This environment definitely restricts the growth of the roots and it's functions.

How do I trim and prune my Bonsai?

The main objective of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into the desired form and to reduce growth above ground in order to maintain a balance with root growth. The process of shaping begins when the tree is very young and is on-going as it continues its growth. Trimming is accomplished by using a sharp scissors or shears. This traditional tool is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears and is used for removing foliage and light branches. When heavier branches are removed, we call it pruning and the tool to use is the concave cutter, for which there is no substitute. The concave cutter allows you to remove small, medium and even large branches without leaving any visible scars. Some trees such as the Juniper should be trimmed by using the thumb and index finger to remove new growth and to prevent browning and a "sheared" appearance.

How do I prevent diseases and insects from infecting my Bonsai?

As living trees, bonsai are susceptible to insect attacks and disease. Preventive and corrective measures include (a) keeping your bonsai in good health, since insects and bacteria tend to attack weak trees, (b) giving your tree ample light, fresh air and ventilation, (c) keeping the soil free of spent blooms and fallen leaves etc. You may also use an insecticidal soap spray that is not harmful to humans or animals. This soap derivative, however, may require more than one application to control the insect population. It's also a good idea to use this spray weekly to prevent any attacks.

How do I train my Bonsai?

Wiring, a relatively modern method of training bonsai trunks and branches into the desired forms, has become commonly accepted. It is often used in place of, or in conjunction with the traditional methods of long-term pruning and hemp-rope binding. Copper wire that has first been annealed in a low-temperature fire is preferred. After it has cooled, it is wrapped around the branches in the direction the branch is to be bent. The branch should be bent once into its final position so as not to harm the cambium layer under the bark. The wire should be wrapped taught, but not too tight, and should be removed just before it bites into the branch -- between 6 and 12 months. The wire is removed with a bonsai wire cutter by snipping the wire at each turn, thereby allowing the cut pieces to fall to the ground. Never unwind the wire or use pliers to cut the wire, since this will damage the branches.

What is Bonsai soil and why is it used for Bonsai?

As noted previously, potted trees do not do well in soil that is always wet. Potting soil and topsoil are heavy soils that can remain wet for weeks. Bonsai soil is a mixture of ingredients which allows the water to drain freely and at the same time, retain moisture. In addition, the ingredients allow the roots to breathe air and prevent compaction. There are two basic types of bonsai soil -- a conifer mix and a tropical/sub/tropical mix. Before adding any soil mixture, be sure to cover the drainage hole(s) with screening to prevent the soil from washing out of the pot. When re-potting, it is always best to use the soil mixture in it's dry state. Always balance SUN, WATER, AIR, SOIL and NATURAL NUTRIENTS.

Spring - Bonsai grow and develop from spring to summer, thus they must store up nourishment in the soil to prepare for the winter. Spring is when most bonsai begin their growth cycle. Monitor your watering to meet the requirements of your plants. Pay particular attention to deciduous bonsai that are at their peak growing stage and coupled with warmer weather may require additional moisture. For flowering bonsai, after the buds have blossomed, remove any remaining flowers and buds from the tree (berries may be left on). Take care to rotate the plants often so that each side receives equal amounts of sun to avoid one side becoming weaker and the other over developing. You should begin fertilizing in April for most plants but not newly transplanted or repotted plants. Evergreens will be happy and flourishing if fertilized from the middle of March on. Waits until the middle of May to fertilize deciduous trees, otherwise the leaves get too big. Start pinching back to control new growth and keep the plant's shape. Pinching terminal buds on a branch will force side branches to grow. Leave on buds that point in the direction you want a branch to grow, removing all others, particularly those on the underneath side of a branch. Cypress and juniper tips can be pinched back with your fingers at the joint. Best not to use shears or the ends will turn brown. Watch for wiring that may cut into the trees.

Fertilizing is particularly important because of the confined area in which bonsai grow. Underfeeding is better than overfeeding. Organic fertilizers such as cottonseed meal, fish emulsion or meal, blood meal, and bone meal are preferable to chemical compounds. Fertilize broad-leafed evergreens when new buds and growth appear in April. Apply small amounts of liquid fertilizer twice a month. Do not fertilize for two months after transplanting or repotting. Give acid-loving plants (camellias and azaleas) iron-based fertilizer. Don not fertilize fruit or berry bonsai with strong nitrogen when fruit is forming.

Summer - Continue rotating the position of the plants, as well as location (from sun to partial shade). Water regularly, preferably in the early morning or late afternoon. Overhead watering is beneficial, but avoid doing this during mid-day and the late evening. Weather can be very hot this month so be careful to guard against sunburn. Feed all fast growing deciduous trees (except those with fruit, flowers or berries). May and June is the time for transplanting satsuki azaleas. Do not engage in any drastic pruning now that the growth period had ended. Wiring of smaller branches can be done. Continue with the usual fertilizing. Do not transplant or report in late summer.

Fall - The growth period is ending and the plant will not require as much watering, but do not allow their trees to dry out. Try to keep a delicate balance between the minimum water requirement and evaporation due to any hot, dry weather. By mid-September, most conifers and deciduous trees can be transplanted. Begin preparation for winter. Trim any strong growth on the upper portions of conifers and clean off any dead needles. November is the last month that bonsai can be safely transplanted. Focus should be on dormancy, not stimulating growth. On deciduous trees, remove any wires that may be cutting in to avoid losing that branch during the winter. Remove any remaining leaves on deciduous trees. Refrain from fertilizing, transplanting or wiring this month.

Winter - Bonsai are in their dormant stage. They require less watering because of colder weather and rainy days, however if weather is warm, check your plants daily. No fertilizing or transplanting this time of year. January is a good time to shape deciduous trees, but be careful because branches can be brittle. Consider pruning any fruit-bearing bonsai. You may begin grafting on deciduous trees as well as pines and conifers. The best months for grafting conifers are January and February. In general, February to early March is the best time to transplant, replant or change soil. The best indicators of a need for soil change is not time, but the condition of the bonsai. A vigorous, healthy bonsai does not need its soil changed and should not be disturbed.

Selecting a pot

A bonsai is something more than just a planting in a tray. The two elements should be in harmony and the selection of the right pot for a tree is almost an art in itself! Traditional bonsai pots are made of ceramic material, usually stoneware clay, although some are made from porcelain. Consider each of your planted bonsai, or group of trees, as an artistic composition and choose the container accordingly. Balance is important visually as well as physically, so the shape and size of the pot should correspond to the shape and size of the individual tree or group of trees. Placement of the tree(s) in the pot is also important to this element of balance and composition.

This information is not meant to be a formal guide for the care of bonsai.  It is only an overview of some general topics and offers a few pointers and tips that may be helpful to the beginning bonsai hobbyist.